Whilst visiting the sprawling, traffic infested metropolis of Mumbai, it doesn’t take long before one yearns for some peace and quiet. A relatively short boat ride (approximately 45 minutes) from the harbour at the Gate of India, and one finds this peace coupled with Mumbai’s most important historical site on the small island of Elephanta. Surrounded by innumerable oil tankers and industrial structures, this is a somewhat unlikely place to find both natural and spiritual richness. That said, it is of the utmost importance to note that since the island is a major sightseeing attraction, it is something of a necessity to take either the first or second boat, leaving at 9:00 and 9:30 A.M, to enjoy the island without hordes of tourists.

Now you may ask yourself, upon discovering that there are neither sculptures nor real elephants on the island, why this name? The fact is that upon arriving on the island Portuguese sailors were greeted with the sight of a huge elephant figure, and though mistreatment and erosion have played their roles, the elephant was restored and sits at the Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum in the city of Mumbai.

Upon reaching the island you will find that from the docks to the famous cave sight it is about a 2 km walk. It is lined with food/drinks vendors as well as an almost absurd amount of knick-knacks; everything from T-shirts to ornamental ivory carvings are for sale. It is a good idea to at the very least pick up a bottle of water before entering the archaeological sight.

Whilst the namesake may have disappeared, the sculptures that remain on the island, which date back to well over a thousand years, are quite stunning. Most prominent amongst them, and lying in the main cave, is the immense three-headed representation of Shiva as creator, preserver, and destroyer, known as Maheshmurti (Trimurti).

Though the Portuguese were apparently fond of using the “pagan” artwork for target practice, much remains fairly well preserved. Some of the smaller figures in particular retain interesting detail; one of my favourites was this elephant headed warrior god carrying a battle-axe.

After thoroughly examining all the statues in the main cave, head out and to the right. Along the path you will find several smaller grottos: some empty, and some containing small carvings. Continue along this path and you will find that it wraps up to the summit of the island, which is known as Cannon Hill.

Here lie two large, fairly modern looking cannons, and I recommend that up here, if you are lucky as I was and find yourself isolated, sit down, relax and admire the view.

For a complete experience, count on the trip taking about four hours. The boat ride (roundtrip) is 120 INR (to go on the top deck, as I would recommend, costs another 10 INR). On the island there is at first a negligible tourist tax of 5 INR, then, to gain access to the cave site, another 250 INR. I highly recommend, before going into the site, purchasing the illustrated guide to the Elephanta Caves by Amar Chitra Katha, which was, though listed as costing 75 INR, sold to me for only 50. It relates, in cute drawings, the Hindu stories behind all the sculptures. Of course the other option is to hire a local guide, of which there are many, to take you through the various caves and explain the meaning of the carvings therein.

This trip also affords you a wonderful, if slightly depressing view of Mumbai and how it is transforming into a polluted, smog drenched mega-city. That said, you will never get a better view of the lavish Taj Palace and Tower Hotel and the Gate of India than when returning from Elephanta Island.