FarAndFurther - For Travelers By Travelers

Berlin - The Becoming City

by Clare Williams
email: claremwilliams1985@yahoo.com

Map of Germany with Berlin

"Berlin ist eine Stadt, verdammt dazu, ewig zu werden, niemals zu sein" ("Berlin is a city condemned forever to becoming and never being.") (Karl Scheffler, author of Berlin: Ein Stadtschicksal, 1910)

Even though Scheffler said this in 1910, this quote can still be applied to Berlin today. Berlin has only become the capital of Germany once again just after the wall came down in 1990. When visiting Berlin you get the feeling that the city is finding its identity, through its dark yet fascinating past.

Berlin is historically known as the centre of Nazi horror and a battleground for the cold war, when Berlin was separated in 1961 by the Berlin Wall. The East and the West were completely divided, people separated from their loved ones and families, unable to pass to the other without risking their lives.

The "Becoming City" has embraced its bleak past with, the Check Point Charlie Museum, and Jüdisches Museum Berlin (Jewish Museum), which is one of the most visited attractions.

Throughout the trip I stayed mainly in the east side of Germany, as it is the historical heart of the city with all of the historical attractions, such as Checkpoint Charlie and the Museum, the Jewish Museum, and Brandenburg Gate. All of these attractions are worth seeing.

The Check Point Charlie museum is interesting though the majority of the information is shown in long pieces of writing and after a while it gets a little tiresome.

Personally I thought the Jewish Museum was the best attraction by far. The exhibition explains how anti-Semitism started in Germany and explains anti-Semitism right up to the Second World War. Also included in the expedition are belongings of Jewish people who died in the Holocaust, which makes the experience far less general. The museum also celebrates Jewish culture and there are displays of Jewish artefacts.

Aside from this the museum visually is an experience in its self. The structure is covered with polished metal facing, and the only windows in the building are the slits, which are supposed to be the deconstructed Star of David. The only entrance to the building is through the Baroque Building next door. The building seems to symbolize the impossibility to experiencing the Holocaust, shown by the lack of entrances to building itself.

Despite the impossibility of being able to experience the Holocaust, the architect, Daniel Libeskind has a go at this, in his interpretation named, "The Holocaust Tower". You enter a small, oddly triangular room, with little light entering through the top, you look up and you cannot see the top of the room that you are in, and the whole experience makes you feel quite sick. As I walk in I hear an English tourist saying, ‘oh my god’ and ‘shall we go now’. Despite the grim subject the Jewish Museum is an interesting experience, and the museum shows how Berlin is accepting its past with respect and dignity.

Apart from the museums, the history and the Holocaust Memorial (near Brandenburg gate and again worth a visit), Berlin is a hip place with an exciting energy and a range of crazy clubs and night life, somebody at my hotel comments, ‘They have some mad clubs around here!’ Berlin is a creative place and artists and musicians tend to hang around clubs and bars in Kreuzberg and Prenzlauer Berg, both places are fashionable and always changing.

‘The Circus’ Backpackers is the best place to stay. I was planning to stay here throughout my stay but I only could for one night as I didn’t book. This place is very popular and you must book ahead. It is the nicest hostel I have been too, clean, bright and modern décor and very friendly. They offer lots of exciting tours geared towards the young traveler and Berlin’s crazy nightlife. These tours include drinking tours, as the Hostel is near to Prenzlauer Berg, known for its nightlife. The hostel also offers a historical sex tour, as Berlin was a sexual playground in the 1920’s. The hostel has a lively bar and café.

Berlin may not be quite sure of its identity yet, but I concluded that Berlin is embracing its dark past but looking towards a bright and lively future.

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