So, the first day in Cambodia was a whirlwind of sensations, and I must admit that I was expecting the travel to prove very challenging. In order to even enter Cambodian territory, we had to spend hours with immigration guards, even though we had all the correct documentation, we were not simply allowed to cross the border from Laos to Cambodia, but in the end, all it took was a few extra dollars. Following that ordeal we had a fairly uncomfortable, yet comical journey to Ban Lung and upon reaching our destination I was simply relieved to be out of the "shared taxi" – the idea is to cram as many passengers into one vehicle as is physically possible. The sensation of my feet touching the ground never felt so good.

Based on a recommendation from Lonely Planet, we found a really nice hostel, though to me, and compared to my previous dwellings over the many months of travel, this was more a luxurious hotel, with a tribal theme.

My first taste of Cambodian cuisine was in the "Soup 63" kitchen where I discovered the "Ratonkiri Beef". I can only explain it as a DIY meal, you are given your cooker, your stock, beef, noodles, vegetable and spices, then you simply cook it yourself. The result was just divine, and it made eating a hands on experience. If ever you see this dish on offer, my advice, TRY IT!!!

Ban Lung was a very small town, with little activities on offer, for most, it is just an overnight stop before they head onto Siam Reap. However, for me, there was something so unspoilt about the place, that I wanted to explore it more, so I spent a few days here, and what I discovered was a taste of the real Cambodia.

I’d heard about a volcanic crater, with a lake, in the area, where you could go to swim. Information on how far the place was from the hostel was unclear, but I decided to venture in the general direction, since the thought of swimming in the waters, really appealed. I walked down a dry, dusty and orange dirt road for roughly 5kms, and somehow, got myself to the right place. I always think that a "traveller’s nose" kicks in when in search of an attraction, either that or the fact that I followed some local boys, and I was sure they must be heading to the same spot. Well, I was in luck, I turned the last corner, and there it was. The lake was stunning, it was pretty big, and most people seemed to be jumping in and swimming in the same spot, and all young kids.

I didn’t hesitate to join in, I took the plunge, again, and again, and again, I felt as young as the kids. Together we all laughed, seeing who could make the biggest splash. It felt like complete freedom, each time my body crashed into the warm waters, I felt, in that moment, so happy. All the stresses of life were forgotten, and replaced by a natural high.

The following day, on the advice of The Lonely Planet, I and another backpacker went in search of what sounded like some very tranquil waterfalls. What we had not anticipated was how long it would take us to reach these waterfalls. Let’s say, that the best part of the day was taken up by walking. However, I do not have even one complaint about this walk, since it was one of the most amazing walks I have ever been on. It was not the scenery that made it so special, but the people and places that we passed along the way.

In our attempt to reach the "waterfalls", we passed through a couple of villages. Two white faces passing through these villages, caused quite a stir, and all the people came to greet us. Especially the children, they would come running, big smiles on their faces, declaring three words of English only: "hello", "‘bye, bye" and "ok", though not necessarily in this order, but they were so pleased to demonstrate what they knew. My heart melted when I saw their little smiles, I wanted so much to squeeze them all. It was difficult to say goodbye, but we did have a purpose to this journey, and it was to reach the waterfall, we passed another village, and were greeted with much the same reception, every person we met, was so friendly, so warm.

By the afternoon, we had reached the waterfall; it wasn’t quite what I was hoping. But after such a long walk, feet in agony, I took the plunge into the cool dark, muddy waters. We spent some time at this peaceful spot, avoiding the reality that we had such a long walk back to the hostel.

Such a long walk, turned out, not to be a long walk at all, because on route a rather generous local guy came to our rescue. We had walked no more than an hour, when a guy called Chann, stopped on his motorbike, just next to us. Chann explained that he worked in a hotel in Ban Lung, and was happy to take both of us on his motorbike, so three adults, one small motorbike, but no more walking, it was a blessing!

Ban Lung, had been beyond all expectations, a small, fairly unknown town, but settled with of some of the most kind natured people I have ever met. The more I travelled through Cambodia, the more I learnt of the terrible and tragic history, and such knowledge, makes the Cambodian human spirit even more incredible.

Sadly the time had come to leave Ban Lung and the lady who ran the hostel, had advised us about a place called Kratie, not so far from Ban Lung, and there we would find the rare, Irrawaddy Dolphins. With the mention of "rare" and "dolphin", I was convinced, and it was sort of on route to Siam Reap. So, the following morning, myself and 6 other backpackers, squeezed into one very small car, this time, I had bagged the front seat, to share with another person, of course, but it was less painful than being in the back with 5 people!

It was during this second road journey in Cambodia that I learned about the full extent of unexploded mines literally covering the country, because when we made bathroom stops, we were strongly advised by the taxi driver, not to venture into the bush. The reason was that you might step on one such mine; so, I had given up on privacy, but better that than lose a leg, or worse. The advice served as a strong reminder of the struggle that Cambodia still faces today because of atrocities that took place over 30 years ago.

A few uncomfortable hours later and we arrived. And not long after that, I hired a motorbike, and was off in pursuit of dolphins on the Mekong River. I should point out that I do not have a motorbike license, but, I could ride almost as well as the locals, I had a twenty minute lesson from a lady when I was in the north of Thailand, which in this part of the world, is adequate enough.

The sensation of riding through the Cambodian villages, was incredible, all the people that spot you will wave and smile, of course my blonde hair always gives me away as a traveller, but it has never proven too much of a problem, and in Kratie, it was rewarding me with yet another welcome reception.

Shortly after, I arrived at the place, where I paid a small fee to be taken out on a small boat onto the enormous Mekong. Within seconds I saw two of these rare dolphins, they resemble dolphins in every sense with exception of the fact there is no long nose, instead a flat face. They do look quite bizarre, but still fantastic. It was very quiet and peaceful out on the river, and the boat had switched off the engine. So every so often, you could hear the dolphins breathing, water spraying into the air, and then their strange flat faces moving in and out of the water. After sharing the sunset with the beautiful creatures, it was time to head back, but it was definitely worth the visit.

The drive back was equally as enjoyable, and again, like Ban Lung, I felt I had been to a place not so common with travellers.

I will never forget my first few days in Cambodia, I was beginning to understand the history of the country more and more, sometimes, I felt surrounded by sadness, but this was not from the people, it was my own sadness that such a sensational country, had, and was still enduring so much pain, yet, to look at the people I had met in these first few days, you would not recognise even one indication of pain on their face, only joy and laughter.

Ban Lung and Kratie, are two unspoilt towns of Cambodia, and the fact tourism is not so strong is what makes the places so special, but in addition, it comes down, simply, to the people.

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